A Tale of Three Hikes

5 April 2009

Whilst sitting atop a mountain high above the city, the bold men of the Canberra branch of the TriHards Wild Endurance team contemplated their lack of training as they sat in a growing puddle of sweat. It’s not that they were slack, they had been doing their regular runs, rides and even managed to fit in some weight sessions, but had done very little in the way of endurance training or trekking. Finding the time for endurance training is difficult for amateurs at the best of times, having to balance work, family and social commitments with their training; but the past few months had been especially trying for the TriHards.

Jack, the mighty TriHard training pacesetter, had done his cruciate ligament, which was replaced by a bit of fishing line. They say dogs become like their owners, and Jack was incredibly disappointed that he received no titanium during the procedure. This left the Cyborg unable to venture out on long treks into the scrub, as he could not bear walking out the front door in his hiking clobber whilst Jack sat on his cushioned bed, staring at him with those big, brown, sad eyes...

So it was that Mr GPS voiced his concerns about their level of fitness, or lack of it, and suggested that the Canberra branch should undergo some more intensive training to catch up. After all, if they couldn’t train relatively hard over a long time, perhaps extremely hard training in a short time would have the same effect! Even better-altitude training! After all, many athletes undertake altitude training before big events, surely it must provide tremendous benefit. Being the TriHards, with visions and plans as grand as the sky itself, the boys concluded that they must therefore climb Kosciuszko-after all, there is no higher mountain in Australia which can be scaled!

Mount Koscuisko

Mount Koscuiszko is the highest peak in Australia, rising to 2,228 metres above sea level, and is situated in the well-maintained Koscuiszko National Park (entry fee of $16 per car). The park has some excellent walks, three of which lead to Rawson’s Pass at the base of Koscuiszko. The walks are very popular with approximately 30,000 people climbing to the summit, 1km from Rawsons Pass, each year (it can get very crowded at the top).

These three walks are known as the Thredbo Walk, the Summit Walk and the Main Range Walk. However, in keeping with adventure racing naming standards (at least, the AROC ones), the TriHards have elected to call them the Novice Walk, Classic Walk and Advanced Walk respectively.

1. The Novice Walk

At 5.5km, the Novice Walk is the shortest and easiest of the walks, and walkers should set aside approximately three hours travelling time (return). This walk starts from Thredbo, where hikers get the chairlift to the top of the range (which takes approximately 20 minutes). From there it is a 5.5 km up a slight slope on metal grate to Rawson’s Pass. There are a number of guided tours which also lead from this point.

The walk takes in the Mount Kosciuszko lookout, Lake Cootapatamba Lookout, and the fantastic scenery along the alpine ridge. No trees grow at this altitude, however, there some interesting rock formations to be seen. All in all, it’s quite easy and pleasant walk, though it can be a bit busy at times.

2. The Classic Walk

The Summit Walk is slightly harder and longer than the Thredbo walk. It starts from Charlotte’s Pass, and follows the Summit Road, which used to be a maintenance road until it was closed to preserve the environment. The good news, however, is that bikers are welcome on this track, so bring along your mountain bike-it’s hard work going up, but a lot of fun coming down! The summit walk is 8km from Charlotte’s Pass to Rawson’s Pass, with some areas a bit steeper than the Thredbo track.

In an odd twist for the alpine walks, there are snow gums at the start of the walk (there are very few trees at this altitude), revealing some wonderful colours where the bark has peeled away. The road follows a ridge, then ducks into the valley, where trekkers cross the Snowy River, before rising once more up to Seaman’s Hut, which is approximately two kilometres from Rawson’s Pass.

3. The Advanced Leg

At 12.5km long, this is the longer of the three walks to Rawson’s Pass, and slightly more challenging in that there is much more climbing and descending involved, however it is much more rewarding in that there are a number of dramatic views. The walk starts by descending into the valley to the Snowy River just below Charlotte’s Pass, where the walker must cross utilising a number of stones placed in the river. From the river, it is climbing, climbing, climbing to Hedley Tarn Lookout and Blue Lake Lookout.

From the Blue Lake Lookout, the track winds west and upwards to Carruther’s Peak, providing some fantastic views, then follows an exposed ridge, which provides excellent views of surrounding mountains (if they’re not shrouded by clouds!)

This walk starts off with some excellent paved track, which then turns into gravel, before becoming more of a goat track as it moves along the ridge; until finally it becomes paved again as it nears Rawson’s Pass. Be warned, there are stairs to climb to reach Rawson’s!

The Plan

Three walks, the TriHards, it all had some symmetry to it; so the TriHards decided they would break from adventure racing norms, and split up to do three treks. The Princess, having not actually entered a race before, elected to take the Novice Course from Thredbo (she had done the Summit Walk previously). Mr Bas, Mrs Bas and the Basette decided to take the Classic Course, the longer distance not being anywhere near as scary as the chairlifts. To round things out, Mr Chris volunteered to do the advanced course and go by the Main Range Track.

The plan was for all groups to meet up at Rawson’s Pass around 11:00-11:30, then proceed up to the summit of Kosciuszko for lunch before returning. This would mean a staggered start; the Novice Team would head out from Thredbo at approximately 10; while Mr Chris would get a lift to Charlotte’s Pass and head out with the Bamily; Mr Chris would be pressed to cover the longer, more difficult ground in the same time that the Bamily were going to do the Classic Course, however Mr Bas would be laden with the Basette, which would no doubt slow him down somewhat.

After lunch, the Royal Party would head back to Thredbo, and Chris would join the Bamily in returning along the Classic Course (completing the trek in an all-important loop).

Three Tales

1. The Advanced Course: Mr Chris

BOM had told me to expect a fine day, with temperatures ranging from 1 to 10 degrees; and from the comfort of the Basmobile I would have to agree. The dark blue of the sky was interrupted by only the occasional fluffy white cloud drifting across; it was looking to be a great day for a trek! With the car safely parked at Charlotte’s Pass, we emerged into the chill alpine winds, undeterred and ready for adventure!

I knew I was in for a bit of a challenge; not only was I doing the longer walk, but out of politeness I had set myself the challenge of doing the Main Range Walk in the same time that the Bamily would do the Summit Road. I didn’t want them waiting there in the wind too long for me! Though, I did believe that having the Basette along would slow them down enough to give me a fighting chance. Mr Bas kindly offered me a topographic map of the area; I declined his offer; believing the trail would be well marked, and seeing all those contours would probably deter me from my quest!

The kind people at national parks had put up a sign at the crossroads of the main range and summit walks, informing us that the Main Range Track was a 21.5 km circuit, and for fit walkers only, with the description including the words “steep”, “climb” and “Peak”. Such language didn’t daunt me, I was eager to try something a little harder.

Now, I should point out here that I’m not a masochist. No, really. I had some very good reasons for doing the harder walk. For starters, doing the Main Range Circuit would be a closer approximation to a single leg of the Wild Endurance, training for which was sort of the point of this adventure. It would be a good opportunity for me to test gear over a longer, more rugged walk.

Further, I had done the Summit Walk a few years ago with the Princess and, to be honest, found it quite disappointing. It is quite scenic, with the Snowy River flowing quietly through a valley surrounded by rolling green hills, the occasional hint of snow about the valley. However, I found the walk a bit straightforward and boring, while the scenery was quite nice, it didn’t seem to change must as you trudged along the long road. I was after something a bit more dramatic, and was hoping the Main Range would provide it.

So it was that the Bamily and I parted ways at approximately 9:30 with a view to meet at Rawson’s Pass at around 11:00. We had arrived slightly earlier than planned, which meant that the time I had told the Princess to meet us, 11:30, was now out. I quickly sent a message (which didn’t go due to a lack of reception) and headed off into the valley.

The blue sky beckoned, with distant clouds rolling over the hills as I set off down the well-paved path. Bearing the time in mind, and wanting to be fast when I could, I set off at a slow jog, which was helped by the fact that the path had a few lumps in it, which would prevent an out of control running descent. Across the river, I could see the path snaking back up the mountain, and knew I’d lose some time coming back up!

The Snowy River lies at the bottom of the path, and fortunately it was quite low on the day; making the task of jumping across the stones quite simple. I stopped on the other side to try to catch a glimpse of the Bamily making their way along the Summit Road, to no avail (though, as it would turn out later, they could see me-must be their younger eyes!)

From the river, the path wound up, and up, and up. Fortunately there were quite a few bends, such that I could keep convincing myself I was almost at the top! By about half way up, as the sweat began to roll over me, I started to consider removing a layer of my outer shell; considering how much gear I had put in that outer layer; my camera and the all-important music, phone. I elected to continue for a while longer before going to the hassle of stopping to remove my pack and the associated layers, which turned out to be a good decision! The track had also turned to loose gravel, which made me thankful I had elected to wear hiking boots rather than my usual trail running shoes; the boots are still light enough to run for a while in, but provide the added support and protection from rocks beneath!

As the track evened out on the top of the range, an icy wind blew up from the north side of the range, cutting into me. Fortunately, by this stage I was quite warm, so found it refreshing (and was thankful for leaving the extra layer on).

By 9:50 I reached the Blue Lake lookout, at the same time as a larger group on a guided tour from Thredbo. I took a quick snap before the majority of the group arrived, and considered my progress. At about 4km into the hike, the Blue Lake Lookout marks about one-third of the way into the Main Range Walk (to Rawson’s Pass); which meant that I was travelling quite well, though I had missed my cut-off of making it there by 9:45 to take the trail down to the Blue Lake, so I set off back on the path, climbing once more.

It was around this point that the clouds started to roll in across the mountains; I was walking in a white mist, seeing the trail ahead, and the alpine foliage around me; but that was about it; so I set off at a light jog once more, considering I wasn’t missing much of a view (apart from green grass and groundcover, which is quite an anomaly for a Canberran). The path was a relatively level dirt track, on a slow and steady rise to a ridge, so it was a fairly easy jog.

After a very short time, the path reached the top of the ridge, and forked, with a sign indicating I should go left for the Main Range walk-from my memory of the maps I had looked at in planning the trip, I knew that the track to the right would most likely lead to some great views, however with the low cloud obscuring all, there was little point, and I had to try to get to Rawson’s in short time!

However, I took a moment to pause and look northwards along the path, and for but a moment the clouds cleared, revealing steep, jagged, rocky cliffs on the mountain opposite. It really was a tremendous and I felt myself in Lord of the Rings territory. I fought off the urge to cry “Gandalf” to the wind, took a picture and headed north west up the path to Carruther’s Peak.

There were many crows on the way up Carruthers, and they all seemed to gather around some interesting rock formations; large, grey stones pushing up through the green groundcover, which seemed more like the crumbling walls of ancient castles rather than anything natural; the crows perhaps the ghosts of the dead fallen. Or perhaps I’d just read too much Tolkien. At any rate, I decided this was much more dramatic territory, so switched the iPod to Nick Cave, and continued my hike up the mountain.

The path then crossed to the southern side of the mountain, winding it’s way west; and became more of a goat track. From my high vantage, I could see other hikers on the path as it turned south. My hazy memory told me that the southern turn of the path marked about two-thirds of the trip; and I was still travelling quite well. I held back my enthusiasm, and continued walking at a steady pace; the ground was a bit uneven for running, and this height presented a fantastic view.

From the southern turn, the path crossed along a ridge, overlooking another lake. The water seems so blue in the lakes up in the Alpine areas; perhaps because it sits undisturbed, sheltered from the wind from the high mountains, it’s unblemished surface reflecting the pristine blue sky above. Another range of mountains rose to the west of the path, making spectacular views from every way I looked.

The path along this ridge was steadier, though included some paved stones which weren’t necessarily stable; though, looking at my watch, it was nigh 11:00, which meant I had half an hour to meet the remainder of the group at Rawson’s. While I thought that I probably had enough time, the competitive devil sat on my shoulder and began to whisper, “Yes, you’re tracking very well, but wouldn’t it be cool to beat them to the Pass?” So I began to jog...

Once more the path dipped down, and this time I was into real goat-track territory. The range to the west still looked great, but by now I had seen it, and had a bit of a climb before me. So, I decided to just start jogging and get it over with. Fortunately, another group of hikers moved aside for me, no doubt considering me insane as I jogged on, and on, and on.

I made very good progress; at approximately 10:45, I had Seamen’s Hut in sight; the hut is 2km down the Summit Road from Rawson’s Pass. I was going to make it on time. Better yet, I may even get there early! However, the path opened up once more to paving stones, which weren’t always stable, so I considered it best to walk a strong, steady pace, until I came to stairs.

Lots of stairs.

It is at this point that the Main Range trek climbs back up to the side of Koscuiszko; through use of many, many stairs. Did I mention the stairs? Around this time I considered my foolishness of running and pushing hard throughout the hike, without realising the path finished in a staircase! I was out of energy, my legs were tired, and I was so close.

There was nothing for it I pulled a nut bar from my pocket, changed the tunes to Faith No More, abandoned any further hope of running, and started pushing myself up the stairs. I should probably point out here that I am what many people would call a short-arse. Now, this probably doesn’t mean a lot to most people, however it seems to make a difference with stairs. I have often found in state and national parks, when the nice rangers create stairs for visitors, they tend to make them spread apart a bit. This is good in that the hiker doesn’t climb a huge staircase per se, however, in my case, it means I take a step between each stair; which means I generally wind up ascending on the same leg every time. Consequently, I do now make a conscious effort to alternate my stepping as I go, so both legs get a workout, and I’m not walking with a limp for a week.

And stairs are deceptive! Often you are inclined to look up and think, “Wow, only five more to go!” only to be greeted by 50 more once you’ve crossed the rise of those five! But they were over in short time, and by approximately 10:55 I was done with the stairs, and onto the main track which climbs Koscuiszko; though I was despairing in not being able to achieve my goal of arriving at Rawson’s Pass by 11. As I was pondering this, I looked down to see the Bamily approaching Rawson’s Pass. Needless to say, this was all the inspiration I required, and I set off at the best run my tired legs could carry me.

Looking back down the Summit Track, I could see Mr Bas running, with the Basette on his back! The race was on! This proved enough motivation, and before too long I was panting and tired at Rawson’s Pass, with plenty of time to wait the extra half an hour for the Princess. No, I am not going to tell you who headed whom off at the pass!

The Bamily and I then spent half an hour awaiting the arrival of the Princess and Queen, who had taken the Thredbo Walk. We waited a few moments when they arrived, and waited while the Princess indulged her desire to visit every toilet she can (though, visiting the highest facilities in Australia was no doubt a highlight, made even more so by the novelty of a water-free commode; the Princess was very amused).

With the load lightened, the Princess returned, unamused, to find no royal litter at the pass to carry her up to the peak. She had to settle for a handy push from her loyal subject... So it was, I found myself pushing her up the final stretch to the peak of Kosciuszko, watching as clouds raced up the valley to the east. The entire group made fairly quick work of this climb and, once upon the summit, skipped the formalities of planting flags and taking photos to seek shelter from the wind for a comfortable lunch.

While there isn’t any protection on the peak in the form of trees and the like, large granite boulders provide adequate shelter (and back rests) to sit down and have a decent break after climbing the mountain. Out of the wind, the day was once more very pleasant, though care should be taken when hiking the alps-while the day is fine and cool, the sun still does it’s work, and sunburn will come swiftly to those unprotected!

After consuming our lunches, and talking the Basette into eating a little more and rugging up, the TriHard trekkers returned to the summit for their various photo opportunities; though with the wind whipping up the side of the mountain, and clouds flying across the sky, it was time to leave; returning down the path from whence they came.

After hearing the wonderful tales of the facilities at Rawson’s Pass, everyone decided to have a go at the wonderfully new, politically correct toilets. They were unisex, water free, eco-friendly toilets! Even the handwash didn’t require water.

So relieved and enthralled at the wonders of modern ecoscience, the group split up once more, with the Royal Party heading back down the smooth, grated path to Thredbo, and I joined the Bamily in returning down the long, wide summit walk. I have to say that after the Main Range walk, the Summit Walk was a bit disappointing. It’s one of those walks where you hear every step you take, every one seems to reverberate through you, a slow, steady crunching of rocks beneath your feet, like an endless drumming until you reach your destination.

The walk heads past Seaman’s Hut, 2km from the pass, which is an interesting place. It’s a little alpine hut, with a store of wood inside, in case of emergency. It’s nice to know there are such facilities up there, to help the hapless hiker who may find themselves stuck in the mountains in the weather, which certainly can change quickly. It looks as though the hut had been recently refurbished, as it was in quite good condition all around.

From the hut, the road winds down to the Snowy River, which flows gently under a bridge. The water is crystal clear, though a little shallow for a paddle! From here, the track wind back up onto the range, though it is neither a steep nor hard ascent; there were a few riders on the track (including one who had lost a pedal, so was turning back!) I think it would actually be quite a nice, and not too hard ride, though the last stretch from the Snowy up to Seaman’s Hut would be a bit of an incline when heading up.

Trees began to flourish once more near Charlotte’s Pass; with snow gums beside the road. The bark had peeled off many of them, showing the underlying wood in a rainbow of colours. I took a photo of one, however the colours really did not come out in the splendour they held on the day; but then I never seem to manage to get my camera to capture the beauty of the moment...

All in all, I had a great walk, and I would definitely recommend the Main Range Track; it is far more exciting and challenging than the Summit Walk alone and, while I haven’t tried the Thredbo walk yet, I’m fairly confident it would be a lot more interesting. It is a harder walk, but well worth it for the better views and, if you’re so inclined, challenge. I dare say that it would be a much easier walk if you come from the other way (from Charlotte’s, head up the Summit Road, then back via the Main Range walk). The climb back up to Charlotte’s Pass would be steep, but not long.

2. The Novice Course: Princess

When my ever energetic action man Chris suggested going up Kosciuszko again as pre-training for his 100km trek through the Blue Mountains I was quick to suggest that I try out the Thredbo walk and knowing that he was going to attempt the Main Range Walk (the really long hard one) I recruited my brother Geoff to come and help push me up the hills.

This trip is an ideal overnight destination from Canberra. We left at 2pm on Saturday and returned home by 6pm Sunday. There isn’t much to look at on the way until you reach Jindabyne but you can always sleep! (if you aren’t driving that is)

We reached Jindabyne at approx 5pm with a break at Cooma for an essential coffee break for Chris. We checked into the Snowy Mountains Backpackers which is reasonably priced for a room and a bathroom, the room even had enough beds for 5.

Seeing as the Cafe at the backpackers was under renovation. We found some other restaurants to choose from for dinner. Mexican, Italian and a Bakery that opened at 6am which was good to know for the morning. Jindabyne has a supermarket and various speciality stores. If you fancy a walk, fish or a swim (if it’s warm enough), the lake isn’t too far away.

On the Sunday Chris and I got up early, had some coffee and breakfast at the Bakery, and I went back to the backpackers to packed up our gear whilst Chris and the Bamily drove up to Charlottes Pass, Geoff and I headed off at about 9am. It took approx 40 mins to drive to Thredbo after taking the turnoff down Alpine Way.

Once we reached the top of the lift and after a toilet stop we headed up the mesh pathway, over several streams full of fish and a wonderful view. It is above the treeline, so apart from the rocks there is not much protection from the wind. It was very steep most of the way, so if you reach the Mt Kosciuszko Lookout (approx 2kms and a third of the way) and you find you are exhausted, then go back! Unless, you have someone to push you up the hard bits like I did! The walkway provides metal plaques informing you of your progress as you go, so it serves as an incentive in a small way. If you keep a close eye out, you may see wildlife, and the many storyboards along the way are very informative. Close to Kosciuszko you will see Lake Cootapatamba one of Australia’s glacial lakes, and you will see the Summit Walk from Charlottes Pass. (18kms return) a much longer walk.

It took us approx an hour and 20 mins to reach Rawson’s Pass and another 20 mins to reach the summit (after a rest and a toilet break) The toilets here are waterless, but they provide sanitising gel to wash your hands and it smells really nice! Thankfully I had another push up to the summit from Chris and was grateful to him for helping me make it when reaching the top.

At the summit there is a sign displaying the stats of Mt Kosciuszko and there is a stone marker to signify the highest point. These both provide excellent photo opportunities! Because it is always necessary to have photographic evidence of your amazing accomplishment! (Though there may be a queue) Once you have a photographic record, you should find a boulder to shelter you from the wind and partake of your snacks or lunch. Guaranteed you will enjoy it and be glad you carried it! We had a yummy pasta that Chris had kindly made, and is perfect to satisfy the appetite you work up! Chocolate is also a great snack at this stage!

Then the best bit, the trip down! It is a steep track down the summit so take it easy. Half way down you can look out and see the Main Range Walk (the really hilly, hard looking one) and the Summit walk (the sort of boring one). But the views are spectacular from any vantage point on Mt Kosciuszko. There we made one more trip to the toilet and Geoff and I said “see you soon” to the Bamily and Chris who were going down the Summit path.

The 6kms back to the chairlift only took us an hour this time, as there were only 2 hills. The trip down the chairlift was equally steep but it was great to sit down. And we were equally thankful again that we got a car park close to the lifts.

Some call this the “Novice walk” but I say it was as hard as the Summit Walk from Charlottes pass, only shorter, mainly because of the really big hills!

Notes:

Plan for some expenses as part of your trip, to enter the National Park, you are required to pay a car fee of approx $16.00. It is free if you are a NSW pension holder. When we got to Thredbo and fortunately found a park close to the Thredbo Sports and Information Centre we parted with another $28.00 per adult for the chairlift up to the start of the walk.(Return ticket) Note that the last chairlift down is at 4.30pm, so don’t be late!

The chairlift trip is steep in some parts, so if you have an aversion to heights, it’s not advisable. But otherwise it’s a smooth pleasant trip. You should rug up before getting on the chairlift as it gets cold. At the top you will reach the Eagles Nest restaurant.

It would be prudent to note here that you should take your own snacks, and/or lunch if you can carry them. There are restaurants and cafes at Thredbo, and at the top of the chairlift, however when you really really need sustenance (at the end of a long gruelling walk) there won’t be any food places around! There are however toilets in abundance by comparison. There is a toilet at Thredbo, at Eagles Nest Restaurant (public access, no need to eat) and there is Australia’s highest toilet at Rawson’s Pass. And lastly, dress warmly! Take windproof jackets, thermals if you have them or layer with a t-shirt, long sleeve shirt, jacket and most importantly a beanie or hat. Sunscreen is a must no matter what season, and make sure you wear really really good walking shoes. We passed a few people on the way in shorts and no hats, I suspect that they suffered from sunburn and/or wind chill!